Winterizing your RV
by KC Chavda
Fall is perhaps the best time to RV in the northwest. The weather is pleasantly warm during the day and cool at night,
most of the crowds are gone from the State, Provincial and National Parks, there are no reservation systems to fight
with and you have your choice of sites when you get to your destination. Life is good!
But like all good things, camping in some parts of the northwest is coming to a close. The snowbirds are planning
their trip south for the winter and the rest of us have to start thinking of winterizing our RV. Often, snowbirds
should winterize as well, just to be on the safe side.
You can take your RV to a dealer and they can do it for you, or you can do it yourself in a couple of hours.
I take some extra time to inspect the RV for any other maintenance items that may need attention (like a tear in the
roof, fixing caulking that is coming off, cleaning the back of the fridge, checking battery fluids, doing propane
leak test at most joints, etc). The focus of this article will be the basics of winterizing of your RV.
There are two main methods of winterizing or, more importantly removing any and all water in the plumbing system.
One can blow the water out of the system using compressed air or you can fill the system with RV certified antifreeze.
PLEASE DO NOT USE ANY OTHER ANTIFREEZE as most of them are poisonous and harmful to your RV's plumbing. It will typically
take between 1-3 gallons of antifreeze to winterize most RVs. The steps required are very similar for both approaches.
Personally, I prefer to do it using both methods (I am trying to justify my purchase of a 25 gallon compressor to my wife).
You will need an adapter for your air compressor connection to the water spigot on your RV. You can pick it up at
most RV dealers.
Steps:
1. Drain and flush both black and grey water tanks. Fill and drain until drain water is clear.
2. Open and drain the fresh water tank from below. Close drain when empty.
3. Drain the hot water tank.
• First disable the electric element by flipping the circuit breaker OFF. Stick masking tape on the fuse box to remind you to turn it on in the spring.
• Remove the 7/8” nylon plug (or metal one in some case) located behind the outside access door.
• When empty, replace the drain plug using Teflon tape or pipe dope to effect a good seal. Review water heater instructions.
• Put the water heater in By-Pass mode (most RVs have one installed near the cold water intake.
4. Remove any water filters (if you have any). Some filter systems have a bypass to avoid filling the filter housing, others you have no choice. Normally, I install a new one at he beginning of each season.
5. Using air pressure, about 30# and NO more than 45#, blow out the water lines. This requires that you have a source of compressed air.
• Screw into the fresh water campsite connection a fitting available at most any RV store. It will screw into the hose connection. Air pressure can be applied to the fitting to blow out the water lines. NOTE: using air to blow out the water lines is optional and not a requirement. Blowing out the lines will reduce the amount of antifreeze needed to winterize.
• Open and close;
a. Each water faucet (both hot and cold sides).
b. Shower wand, making sure on/off at wand end is open. Lower hose to shower floor so any water can flow downhill.
c. Bathroom sink.
d. Toilet bowl. Operate foot valve both down and up, and operate hand sprayer (if installed) lowering sprayer to the floor for drainage. (use a bucket or towel to catch remaining water).
e. Galley sink. Operate sprayer in both positions (spray & normal flow).
f. Outside shower sprayer making sure on/off at wand end is open.
g. Second bathroom water faucets and toilet if equipped.
h. Some units have two low point drain valves, one red, and one blue.
i. Any other water connections.
The key here is taking your time and making sure all the water is out. Some of this water will go into your
grey and black tank and this is okay as we will put antifreeze in the tanks when we fill the plumbing system
to ensure that the water does not freeze. This will also keep the inside of the tanks 'wet' to prevent any
solids still in there from drying up.
6. Install winterizing kit per instructions at water pump location if one is not already installed. Kit is available for about $15-25 from most RV dealers or stores. The kit allows RV antifreeze to be drawn from a 1-gallon antifreeze container directly into the water pump. DO NOT use automotive antifreeze. Winterizing will require more than two and less than three gallons of antifreeze. More if you are generous or have additional plumbing to winterize. To ensure each line is completely filled with antifreeze, make sure solid pink flows at each faucet.
• Insure all water faucets are OFF.
• Turn valve on winterizing kit to bypass the camper water tank.
• Insert the bypass kit hose into a 1 gallon antifreeze container.
• Operate the water pump. It will suck antifreeze from the 1-gallon container and pressurize the water system.
• Insuring there is enough antifreeze in the container (use a second or third if necessary), open and close each hot and cold-water connection one at a time – see list in step 5. After completing step 5, pour antifreeze into the traps -sinks and shower/tub. Wipe off any excess antifreeze in the bath tub as it may stain the plastic. This will also add antifreeze into grey and black tanks.
• Add a few ounces of antifreeze in the toilet bowl to keep the toilet seal lubricated.
• Turn water pump off, return winterizing valve to the camper water tank position.
You have successfully winterized your RV! This is a good time to throw away your external inline water
filter if you use one and start with a fresh one in the new season.
Tip
To keep mice out of your RV while it's stored, put dryer sheets (such as Bounce) or Naphtha balls (if you can stand the smell) in cupboards, under beds and furniture, etc and Naphtha balls besides each tire and jack that touches the ground. If you keep your RV connected to shore power, spread the Naphtha balls around the inlet as mice love to use your power chord as a highway in and out. Remember mice can squeeze through a hole the size of a dime!
I would like to acknowledge a couple of questions that were sent in on winterizing your RV after I wrote this article.
Ross asked if the black tank flusher needs to be winterized. The answer is yes and I missed this in my steps.
The simplest way is to just blow compressed air and it will push out all the water that may be trapped in the
one way valve and you are done. No antifreeze is needed.
Laura asked if the water in the black and gray tanks would need to be emptied again after the water is blown out
of the plumbing and antifreeze is pumped in. The answer is maybe. If your rig has the valves in an enclosed area
it is not necessary to empty again, but if your valves are in the open, then it is advisable to let all the fluids
out to avoid the black pipe cracking. If in doubt, empty the tanks again.
KC Chavda is a long time RVer and a principal in www.sanidumps.com. Send your comments and questions to
kc@sanidumps.com
